Hot Springs
Sunday, June 26, 2011 at 6:56PM This is a little entry I wrote back in March, and have just gotten around to posting! It's long, but I hope you enjoy!!!
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The past few weekends have been spent soaking up the sun via dog team. Life has been good. Over spring break, Thomas, Paige, Cody and I, along with all of the pups headed up to Brent Sass's place in Eureka for a few days. The dogs got some nice runs in, running to Rampart, and camping along the Yukon. And evening runs to Hutilinana Hot Springs. The trails were more challenging than any we've run this year. There haven't been many times where we've run over lots of ice and overflow, and we scrambled over lots of it up there. Banging off of willows, and skating over glaciers, with some white knuckled runs down windy steep chutes. It was awesome. The dogs loved it. They loved getting out on new trails, and so did we.
We left right around sunset for Hutlinana. A 15 mile trail out of Brent's yard takes you there. It is a windy trail, with lots of switchbacks as you run down to the river. We camped the dogs for a couple of hours while we soaked in the warm waters, and mushed back an 11 mile relatively flat trail, through a recent burn. Without the foliage from the trees, the moon cast its bright glow that the snow reflected silver blue over the landscape, and most of the run was without a headlamp. It was nice. I wouldn't mind training there all the time.
The next weekend I planned on mushing out to Tolovana Hot Springs to meet a few friends. Emily Bernhardt had borrowed our dogs Jetta and Maple, and headed out the evening before skijoring with David Jonas and his 4 freight dogs. They left from the Murphy Dome trailhead to follow the Dunbar-Livengood trail, with plans on camping on Thursday, and mushing the rest of the way in on Friday. It is 48 miles from Murphy Dome to Tolovana. The first half of the trail is a 14 mile descent, and then follows a trapline along the Dunbar. One trapper traps from Chatanika, and another musher traps from Livengood. I had lots of work to do, and wasn't able to leave until Friday. The weather had been pretty warm, so I planned on leaving early, resting the dogs for a few hours during the heat of the day, and running in the rest of the way Friday evening. Our friends Laura Gutierrez and Jeff Yancevich, drove up the Elliott to hike in the 11 mile route.
Friday morning, the dogs and I woke up earlier than I prefer, and headed up to Murphy Dome. As we were getting ready to go, another dog truck drove up to the trailhead. I met Simon and Sarah and their 11 Mackenzie River Husky yearlings. They too were planning on heading out to Tolovana. We chatted a bit, and then headed out on the trail. The views from the Chatanika River Road were spectacular, in sweeping panoramas, you could see both the Alaska Range and the White Mountains. The sky was a deep blue, and the trail was beautiful. The dogs and I ran for a couple of hours, and then camped out on a little lake for a few hours. The dogs ate some salmon and slept, and I napped in the hot spring sun. It was spring mushing at its finest. We had run about 26 miles, and only had another 22 to go to the hot springs. Sarah and Simon were taking it pretty slow and resting frequently with their big fluffy dogs, but caught up while we were camping. Excitedly, we planned on soaks in the springs that evening. The trail had been awesome.
Not two miles after leaving camp, and crossing the Tatalina, the trail disapeared into a soft sugary mess. Rumors had said that the trail were on had been brushed following an icestorm in November. It didn't look like anyone had been through in months. For the next few hours we moved slowly, around 2 miles an hour. I was kicking myself for leaving my snowshoes in the truck. The trail sucked. After a few hours it became really apparent we wouldn't make it to the hotsprings that evening, but I hoped to at least make it to the Tolovana turn off. The trail from Emily and David hadn't set up at all, and we were all swimming through the snow.
After about 10 miles, the trail became confusing. They looked like they had turned around a couple of times, trying to decide on a route. Emily had been to Tolovana this way a couple of times, and looked like she was deciding on a route. But, I was new to the area, and it was getting dark. I knew we were the on the right trail, but I couldn't tell what they decided to do. I was tired of shoving the sled through this snow, and ducking under all of the willows. Night came fast, and we were moving slow. We camped right in the trail. Off the trail, the snow was thigh deep, and I hadn't seen Simon and Sarah for hours, and figured they wouldn't be coming through any time soon, so I bedded them down right in the trail. I was pretty exhausted when we finally stopped, and was really grateful to have a warm meal in the cooler for the dogs. I didn't have a cooker (didn't think I would need it) and must've stopped in the healthiest stand of trees around. Finding dead standing trees for a fire would wait until morning.
It was my first unplanned camping trip. I wasn't really that excited. I had been looking forward to soaking in the hotsprings all day, and more than anything, right then I was ready. After feeding the dogs, I fed myself, and changed out of my wet clothes and got ready to sleep for the night. My dogs Harley and Dylan, loose on the trail, curled up right next to me. Harley sneaking in the bag to keep me warm. It was a long night, and I was colder than I liked. I felt like I had tossed and turned all night, but sometime during the night, I must have dozed off. Early the next morning, Simon and Sarah and their 11 Mackenzie River Huskies woke me, as they mushed in to our camp. They snowshoed their way around me, and continued on the trail. After feeding the dogs, and repacking the sled, I decided to try to continue on just a bit, perhaps see if I missed the trail.
I hadn't, there was not a trail. Not even half a mile up, Sarah was stopped with the dogs, as Simon was bushwacking through the woods trying to locate a passable route. At their distress, I decided to call it quits and head back to town. It was a 40 mile run back to town, and even if I made it to Tolovana, I was supposed to be at school Tuesday morning for the class I am the teaching assistant for, and didn't think it would be good to miss it, and who knows how long it would take?
Our mush out was great, the trail set up beautifully over night, and we had a fast run. During the warm afternoon sun, I camped again on the river, and built a nice fire to melt some more snow for water. The last climb up to the top of Murphy Dome was long, 14 miles, nearly uphill the whole way, and the dogs were raring to go. I had borrowed a few dogs from Sarah Love and Clint Warnke for the trip. Their dog Shia was barking the whole way to the top, she is a tiny little dog, but was driving hard the whole way. And my little dog Harley was a rock star! He has grown so much in the past winter, I am continually amazed by his drive and attitude. Every little rest on the way up (more for me, than the dogs...) he would bark, and continue barking and harness banging as we started running again.
We reached Murphy Dome, just as the sun was setting. It was beautiful. I had hoped to call Thomas and let him know I would be home early, but my phone was dead. Once I finally got home, got the dogs fed, and the phone charged, I called him, to hear him immediately question, 'Where are you!!!?'
Apparently, if you climb the big hill near Tolovana there is cell phone reception, and the group I had intended to meet called to let him know that I hadn't made it. They weren't overly concerned, and figured I had turned back as the trail disintegrated. It had taken them longer than anticipated to make it out to Tolovana as well. But, had I turned back, I should have made it back to Fairbanks by evening. Not knowing that anyone was worried for me, we had taken a relaxing run home during the day, resting and enjoying the beautiful weather...
Thomas and his friend James were on their way to borrow snow machines from the military base where James works to start a search and perhaps rescue! They learned that I was overdue during a party, and I think the thoughts of those around became rather morbid, as they contemplated what could have happened... Broken legs, hypothermia, lost dog team, impaled by a tree... Fortunately, Thomas isn't one to fret, and remained calm, figuring I was probably fine. However, had something gone wrong he thought is best to head out just in case...
Over the next few days, I was eventually able to talk to the rest of the folks that were on the trails over the weekend, and found out the trail was really non-existent. The Dunbar-Livengood trail is maintained by trappers throughout the winter, and while the Dunbar section is used, the trail from Livengood had not been used this past winter, and during the ice storms during November lots of heavy trees had come down on the trail, making it nearly impassable. Emily, having been to Tolovana by this route before, had traveled with David and his four dogs, and they ultimately ended up heading through the woods to find their own route. As the trail disappeared, David hooked Emily's dogs to his team, and they traveled single file, Emily skiing a trail ahead for them to follow.
During their search for the trail, they tried a few different directions, some of which I had attempted to follow, but I missed their eventual trail. It took them two full days to make it the the hot springs. Simon and Sarah never made it. Later in the week, I heard they had finally made it out, their trip being much longer than anticipated. Simon ended up mushing all the way to Livengood, and Sarah snowshoed out, hitchhiking back to Fairbanks to pick up the dog truck to load up the team. However, once she had driven back up to pick up the team near Livengood, they were no where to be found. Eventually, through radio communication from truckers traveling the road, Simon's son was able to locate the team and pick them up. It sounded epic, quite opposite what was anticipated to be a relaxing weekend at the hot springs!
The dogs and I made it home, happy and healthy, and slept well that night. We certainly missed out on the hotsprings, but we will try again next winter. It was still an adventure anyway. But, I certainly won't be found on a unfamiliar trail again without a cooker! And maybe a SPOT tracker...
Megan Perry |
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